Is canned wine any good?

Written by Clifford Roberts; Photography Johan Viljoen

Canned wine is relatively new to South Africa, so it’s not uncommon these days to encounter the question: is canned wine any good?

A good place to start establishing how popular exactly canned wine is. No one’s going to drink it if it’s mediocre, right?

It all began in South Africa in 2019 when wine-in-a-can was legalised. It’s important to note that this regulation established specific standards for the industry, which is an important part of being a good product in the first place.

The wine industry statistics reflect a meteoric rise during its first few years – albeit of a very low base. As the Next Big Thing, South African wine-in-a-can really took off. Even more exciting however has been the trending surge of sparkling variations.

It all began in South Africa in 2019 when wine-in-a-can was legalised. It’s important to note that this regulation established specific standards for the industry, which is an important part of being a good product in the first place.

The wine industry statistics reflect a meteoric rise during its first few years – albeit of a very low base. As the Next Big Thing, South African wine-in-a-can really took off. Even more exciting however has been the trending surge of sparkling variations.

Simultaneously, the growth of wine packaged in Tetrapak boxes – a competing alternative to cans – is also interesting, but we’ll leave the tangents there. We’re here to figure out if canned wine is any good, after all!

We’ve already indicated that being good isn’t a trait that should just be applied to taste. Canned wine doesn’t leach air or light. Wine in a can may be stacked and transported more efficiently than glass bottles and cans are more recyclable.

No opener is needed. Wine in a can is lighter to transport and it’s a handy single-serve, chills faster and can take a knock if it’s in a backpack or picnic basket.

If this were an environmental equation, then considering what happens in wine regions would definitely add weight to the good column – even when one factor in the impact and energy requirements of producing aluminium. Many of South Africa’s canned wines for example have their source in the Swartland, for example, a region that is itself a champion of sustainable wine production.

Early Adopters

In fact, wines from the Swartland were packaged in cans even before local regulations were established here. In 2018, two young American entrepreneurs launched their canned wines into the US with wines made by Swartland Winery. Canning back then for their brand, Lubanzi, was done in their home country. They’ve subsequently established a relationship with South Africa’s Tiny Keg Company.

Lubanzi’s uses Chenin Blanc from the Swartland and Swartland Cinsault for its sparkling rosé-in-a-can.

Another pioneer of the canned products of the vine – Renegade Wines – built its CanCan brand on Swartland quality, using Chenin Blanc from certified heritage vines (old vines); Grenache for its Grenache Rosé; Grenache Noir; Pinot Noir and Chardonnay for its perlé white wine.

Soon to follow were brands like Dawn Patrol, which significantly lists the making of world-class wines and sustainability as its cornerstones. This certainly gives another clue as to answering whether canned wines are any good.

It makes a Cinsault Rosé with Swartland grapes. Its Swartland Chenin-in-a-can is described as having “vibrant and fresh notes of lime, passion fruit and floral aromas”. Its Swartland Syrah-in-a-can is made from handpicked fruit of 17-year-old dryland vines on schist soils. Tasting notes speak of “opulent bright fruit and subtle oak” and “a lovely, soft-textured and elegant wine.”

Local wine-in-a-can

Swartland was, however, not only a behind-the-scenes supplier of grapes to the burgeoning canned wine industry. Many of the wineries have been active participants.

There was AA Badenhorst’s The Curator, an export range of vintage white blend, rosé and reds, and Marras, with his Los Tris Chenin Blanc and a blend of Shiraz and Cinsault.

How good is canned wine?

So, is canned wine any good? As has been demonstrated, the answer is more complex than simply a matter of general taste. In fact, you might ask the same question of bottled wine. Every type of packaging has its own benefits and for example, bottles have proven themselves to be the most reliable, widely used container for maturing wine over decades.

Now consider that London-based Decanter magazine has awarded points into the 90s for canned wines from around the world while a critic at South Africa’s leading wine publication, Winemag, awarded Renegade Wines’ Swartland Chenin Blanc-in-a-can with 92/100 at a tasting in 2020.

Wine canned in aluminium may be regarded as good based on the high scores that several have achieved in tastings by leading wine authorities. They are hugely popular in markets where they occur because of their diversity of authentic wine flavours and styles, associations with established wine brands and regions, and the solutions they provide to challenges presented by traditional wine packaging.

Is canned wine any good? The answer may be found in exploring the category with a personal tasting.