Written by: Clifford Roberts; Photography: Johan Viljoen
The history of the Swartland – one of South Africa’s leading and arguably, most exciting wine regions.
As with any evolution, the Swartland’s journey from bulk wine stalwart to world-renowned home of top quality, sustainably farmed and interesting wines is punctuated by numerous milestones.
The following list highlights some of these, with wines that represent each monumental jump to higher levels.
Swartland Hanepoot – a sweet story
Many of the early vineyards, not only in the Swartland, but other regions too, were once dedicated to the production of sweet wines. Although the demand for these wines has declined over generations, many producers continue to make outstanding examples and serve as custodians of the category’s history. The grape variety used for the Swartland Hanepoot is Muscat d’Alexandrie, whose oldest traces in South Africa may be found in the region. The oldest vineyard, planted in 1900, comprises just 0.35ha.
Allesverloren Tinta Barocca – the Portuguese connection
Contemporary producers of the Swartland are often credited for their radical innovation and experimentation, but this spirit pre-dates them. The late Danie Malan, fifth generation winemaker at Allesverloren, often told the story of how his grandfather, after whom he is named, imported Touriga Nacional, Tinta Barocca, Souzão and Tinta Franciska to become the first to plant them in South Africa. The Portuguese varieties were initially for the making of port, as was the practice in Portugal, but have arisen as powerful unfortified single-variety and blended wines. They remain a distinct part of the Swartland wine scene.
Klip Kop and Piet Bok – the legacy
Some of the Swartland’s leading producers have also led in the preservation of South Africa’s oldest vineyards, and particularly chenin blanc, with many registered under the Old Vine Project. Two outstanding examples of wines from heritage vineyards were AA Badenhorst’s Klip Kop Chenin Blanc, made from a vineyard planted in 1966; and, Piet Bok se Steen Bos Chenin Blanc, from a vineyard dating to 1986. The cellar has subsequently opted to blend its Chenin wines into a single label called Grensloos (Boundless)
Porseleinberg Syrah/Shiraz – from volume to value
Shiraz has traditionally been one of South Africa’s power varieties thanks to its versatility and resilience, particularly in warmer climates. The Swartland, however, has been among the leaders in showing the quality that this variety is capable of when given special care and attention. Eager to prove this, Marc Kent launched Porseleinberg, a Swartland small-production brand exclusively dedicated to the variety, which thrives on rocky schist soils.
22 Families OVP Chenin Blanc – the story of collaboration
The South African wine industry was once dominated by co-operatives, which in their time, played an important role in the Swartland too. The exciting story now is about their evolution to centres of excellence as newly born enterprises. The Riebeeck Valley Wine Co is among them. Its 22 Families OVP Chenin Blanc is made from heritage certified vines, cultivated by the 22 families that founded the winery more than 80 years ago.
The Sadie Family Wines Columella – the harbinger
The Swartland’s rise to prominence began in the 1990s, with young winemakers who saw the opportunity and potential that awaited in the region. Among the wines that has remained an undeniable klaxon of this faith, is Columella, flagship red blend of The Sadie Family Wines. This success has not only been a beacon to consumers, but reaffirmed what producers have asserted – that South African wines can run and outrun the big dogs of the wine world.
Mullineux Granite, Iron, Schist – call of the soils
A range of factors influence a wine’s characteristics and quality, with soil being among the pillars. The Swartland’s diversity of soils was one of the aspects that excited the new wave of producers of the 1990s. They were inspired by a global movement that emphasized not only respect for the land, but also principles of minimal intervention and sustainability. More recently, an unprecedented, map-based analysis of the region was undertaken. According to Eben Sadie, who worked on the project with viticulturist Jaco Engelbrecht, the uniqueness of the initiative lies in the simplification of complex geology and linking it to the effect on wine styles. The Mullineux single terroir wines – Granite, Iron and Schist Chenin blancs, but also Schist and Granite Syrah – are among the strongest ambassadors in this category.
Saint Joseph Blanc – the opening salvo
It seems incongruous to include a non-Swartland wine in the story of the Swartland. But attributing a single wine to the pivotal event that was the Swartland Revolution would be akin to a political landmine. The solution came from a 2010 post event report by the organisers, that indicated the first wine to be tasted at the event was the Saint Joseph Blanc 2008, one of eight “acclaimed Northern Rhone wines, with a focus on the special terroir that goes into them.” The Revolution is credited for planting the eyes of South Africa and the world firmly on the region. It not only showcased the region’s unique wines, but also fostered a vital component of the journey – a sense of community.
Testalonga El Bandito – Prince of orange
“Orange” or skin contact wines may still be a relatively small category, but its fans are loyal and committed. They are likely the way wines were first made centuries ago. Its resurgence in South Africa is widely attributed to Swartland winemaker Craig Hawkins, who used chenin blanc from a vineyard at Lammershoek to produce the style of wine in 2008. Testalonga El Bandito was also the first wine he made.
Saldanha Bay Wine & Spirits Company Méthode Ancestrale – A return to the old ways
The wine isn’t widely available and only made in limited quantities, but its producer – AA Badenhorst – was one of South Africa’s pioneers. The bubbly, made ‘the original way’, was invented by the French in the 16th Century and is also known as Pét Nat, short for Pétillant Naturel (naturally bubbly). It is made with a single, continuous fermentation – unlike the traditional method for Cap Classique and Champagne, which involves the addition of more yeast and sugar (dosage) to a base wine at bottling before a second fermentation.
