Written by: Clifford Roberts; Photography: Johan Viljoen
Holidays and winelists have more in common than one might expect. They often go together. In the Swartland, pairing great accommodation with a journey of wine discovery is even easier given the region’s offering of premier, wine-focused places to stay.
Both wine and comfortable lodgings have one thing in common – they’re the lubricant of good times. Hospitality is a hallmark of farming communities like the Swartland. At the same time, the art of winemaking in the region is not just a craft, but a way of life that extends its warm embrace to every visitor.
Swartland wines can be enjoyed first-hand from one of a myriad of accommodation offerings available, from off-the-grid, self-catering farm-stays to boutique establishments catering to need.
The following list incorporates hotels and boutique guesthouses that pride themselves on specialist knowledge. Their owners and ambassadors include winemakers themselves and skilled guides that can take your trip from “meh” to “marvellous!”.
Marrian George
Marrian George was once the Wildehurst wine cellar, now reborn as an exquisite boutique, six suite hotel and restaurant in the hamlet of Koringberg.
The turn-off is midway between Moorreesburg and Piketberg, with the pink, double storey standing proud at the gateway.
It is the creation of Joanne Hurst – née Marrian – who has lived in Koringberg for over two decades. Together with her late-husband Chris, she founded Wildehurst Winery, whose production has moved to Org de Rac in nearby Piketberg.
Outstanding décor undertaken by Joanne herself, has made her property a feature of some of the country’s leading style magazines.
Fynbos Estate
The Fynbos Estate was originally established as the city breakaway for Johan and Diana Simons. From a place to make their Dragonridge Natural Wines, it has evolved to several other activities including a nature reserve, function venue, olive producer and accommodation provider.
The latter incorporates five spaces—including an authentic, Cape Dutch-Victorian country farmhouse—which can accommodate some 42 people sharing. They cater to a variety of needs, from hosting wedding guests to guests seeking a quiet, nature-bound break.
Kokos Huis
Swartland wine may occasionally be blamed for being the spark that led to love, as demonstrated by the story of Riebeek Kasteel’s boutique hotel, Kokos Huis. Prisca Llagostera has often recounted how she’d fallen in love with a local winemaker (Jurgen Gouws of Intellego, who is now her husband), which was how she came to be in the Swartland.
Kokos Huis is her second hospitality project after her mountain lodge in Andorra, Spain, called L’Ovella Negra.
The properties share a minimalist aesthetic with the focus on bold shapes, natural textures, exposed wood and earthy colours. Kokos Huis has six bedrooms in the main house, three independent studios and a restaurant offering an all-day menu of light bites.
With the owner’s connection to wine, the restaurant is a treasure trove of information about the local scene and regularly hosts wine-related events.
Kloovenburg Wine & Olive Estate
The Du Toit Family has a history at Kloovenburg dating to 1956. Although always having been known for its hospitality, Kloovenburg has continued to evolve its offerings beyond the outstanding wines for which it is renowned. Amongst others, it is the winery behind the Eight Feet Restaurant on the pass from Malmesbury into the Riebeek Valley.
The Parsonage – the building that serves as the farm’s present-day guesthouse – was originally acquired by the Du Toits in 1977 and is a landmark of Riebeek Kasteel. The historic and beautifully restored building overlooks the vineyards, offering a variety of luxury rooms. Décor is a mix of Victorian and French style.
The venue is ideal as a base from which to explore the region’s wine, or just to kick back and savour the outstanding wares produced by the Du Toits themselves.
Kalmoesfontein
Kalmoesfontein is the home of AA Badenhorst Family Wines, producer of some of the Swartland’s most heralded expressions. Pizza nights and the farm lunch, which takes place twice a week, have made the farm a destination, along with its guest accommodation.
The options available include two-bedroom, two-bathroom Winemaker’s Cottage and Stables; and, Die Melkkamer and The Silo, each with one bedroom and one bathroom. The Koringhuis is large, with three rooms and bathrooms; and, there’s an even bigger option of glamping for large groups.
For those staying over, there are ready-made meals and braai packs on offer too. There’s also a farm shop for extras. Farm stays don’t get much better than this.
Bartholomeus Klip
Among the Cape’s food and wine cognoscenti, Bartholomeus Klip is most known thanks to the work of resident chef Louise Gillett and twin sister Louise, who both head up at this historic farm.
Equally twinned are the high-level gastronomic experiences at The Conservatory restaurant that regularly include wine tasting events, and luxurious accommodation.
Bartholomeus Klip is the oldest farm in four adjoining properties comprising 6000ha. The Victorian-style main farmhouse was built in 1906, was renovated in 1996 and opened as a guesthouse in 1997. Wild Olive House was added as a separate, self-catering option soon after, to be followed in 2019 with another self-catering addition, Heron House.
The Royal Hotel Riebeek Kasteel
South Africa was once home to many country hotels that bore the name Royal. The establishment in Riebeek Kasteel, a favoured destination in the Swartland, is one of the oldest survivors of this breed. The Royal Hotel in Riebeek Kasteel was acquired in 2004 by the current owner, Netherlands-raised Robert Brendel.
This grande dame of the region is possibly most renowned for its high, long stoep where visitors and locals often gather for sundowners, served from the hotel’s 150-year-old bar. For wine-lovers, this is the place to get an introduction to the wares of Swartland’s wine producers. The Royal Hotel’s winelist includes a broad selection, from The Sadie Family Wines to Babylon’s Peak; Mullineux to Swerwer, and many more.
• The Swartland Wine and Olive Route is a member organisation comprising the biggest representation of wine and olive producers of the Swartland region.