Written by: Clifford Roberts, Photography by Johan Viljoen
The Swartland is renowned as a champion of old vine wines. It is home to many of the oldest commercial vineyards in South Africa.
Getting down to the brass tacks of old vine heritage is tricky, though. As is the case everywhere, the facts of who owns what and what is made from them are largely an accepted part of the mystery winemakers employ in the stories of fantastic wines. Not everyone is keen to show and tell, and historical records have their own weaknesses.
It’s one reason why, for example, even information from the Old Vine Project (OVP) is the most expansive but still slightly limited. The project certifies the plant dates of submitted vineyards that are 35 years and older. Nonetheless, it remains the most accessible and comprehensive indicator of the category.
Standing out in a crowd
The OVP includes among its members the Swartland properties of AA Badenhorst Family Wines, David & Nadia, Riebeek Valley Wine Co, Leeuwenkuil Family Vineyards, Mullineux and The Sadie Family Wines. Wines bearing the OVP’s heritage seal and declaring the source of its fruit as the Swartland, total 61. These include producers such as Paarl-based Fairview Wines, Roodekrantz and Ahrens Family Wines, Botriver-based Gabrielskloof and Calitzdorp-based The Fledge & Company.
Under the Old Vine Project, the Swartland is one of the Top 10 wine of origin districts home to the most old vines in the country, with its 934ha second only to Stellenbosch.
The Swartland has many of the oldest of these, too. This Top 10 list includes, amongst others, mention of the oldest vineyard of Muscat d’Alexandrie, planted in the Swartland in 1900 and comprising just 0.35ha.
In his own blog, viticulturist Jaco Engelbrecht recalls Eben Sadie taking him to the Kapteinskloof near Piketberg in 2017 to see his ‘T Voetpad vineyard. “It is probably the oldest vineyard in South Africa, planted from the late 1890’s till the early 1900’s, it is a blend of Palomino, Chenin blanc, Semillon, Semillon Gris, and in the old days, some Muscat d’ Alexandrie,” he writes.
Old and outstanding
Lammershoek has long been known as being the site of the oldest Chardonnay vineyard in the country, dating to 1981. They’re dryland-farmed bush-vines, just 0.4ha planted beside the cellar.
The farm was acquired by the South African Johannes Family in 2022. Among the changes under the new owners, the wine portfolio entered a period of transition. Its wines are currently available under the Zwartberg label, which comprises a red and a white blend.
In addition to the old Chardonnay block, it also has the oldest planting of Carignan, rooted in 1976; and Hárslevelű, in 1980.
The Swartland is furthermore the place where the oldest surviving block of Sauvignon blanc, planted in 1965, may be found and growing at the 400ha Klein Amoskuil.
Historic wines and ancient technique
The property on Kalbaskraal Road, outside Malmesbury, is owned by Charles Back and, in recent years, has transitioned its 40ha of vines to become organic. In the cellar, traditional open cement tanks and barrels are used for winemaking and maturation, while 20 Georgian qvevri – an earthenware vessel – were built in, allowing winemaker Charl du Plessis to make wines in the traditional Georgian method that has been used for more than 8,000 years.
A few minutes from the farm grows Grenache noir, whose owner lays claim to its own particularly outstanding longevity. The vineyard, located at Kalmoesfontein, is part of AA Badenhorst Family Wines and was planted in the early 1950s.
Altogether, this collection of ancient vines that Swartland winemakers continue to protect has found a second life, adding diversity not only to the region but the country’s complete ecosystem of wine.
